iUpdates and answers to questions:

Nicole is feeling better. We're hopeful that the allergies were left behind in the desert. My Delhi Belly is getting better, but not gone completely. Always the optimist, I wouldn't have been happy unless my trip had included such a regional hardship. Though with toilets equaling a small hole in the ground, perhaps this wasn't the best part of the country to get ill. Oh well, better days ahead.

As for smells (Willi)... How can I put this? The many foods smell fantastic! Poori Baji (a potatoe gravy) in the morning, fragrant rices, masalas, and the many spices we've never even heard of are a huge treat to the nose. I look forward to it every day and hope to replicate some of them when we get back to the US.

But let's be realistic, those good smells account for about 10% of our day. The bulk is spent tolerating the open sewers (no seriously, I have photos) running through every city, dodging cow dung which liberally dots the streets, and appreciating the ability of the Indian male to urinate/defecate at will wherever he chooses.

I prefer to dwell on the foods, though having just written the above paragraph, not sure if I will stray far from US brought granola bars for the next 2 weeks. No really, we're having a good time :)

Much love to all.