Incredible !ndia

We're back and have uploaded photos to share. Thanks for sharing on this journey with us. Keeping the blog kept us in touch with everyone we love back home which made the journey extra special.

XOXO-
Nic & Eric

Home Sweet Home

o.k. well we're not there exactly, but the admiral's club at the heathrow airport is close enough. we inquired about our tickets and when she saw Platinum immediately directed us to the lounge, yay!!!

We arrived in Kolkata two days ago, excited for a little r & r before our long travels home. Eric, unfortunately, got food poisoning at (of all places) the buffett at the nicest hotel in India, the Oberoi Grand. We spent most of our time in Kolkata watching t.v. and enjoying room service till Eric recovered. And he did, just in time to catch an evening flight the following day to start our journey home.

We had an amazing, most eye-opening experience of a lifetime. We're glad we took this trip and also very glad to be heading back to the creature comforts of home.

Thanks for keeping in touch during our time away and hope to see everyone in Bradenton soon!

Ok, a little explanation is apparently necessary. Everything was totally under control at the airport with the taxi driver/ripoff artist. I was simply making a point to him that he shouldn't try to rip off Americans. French - ok, Canadians - no problem, but try to rip off an American and you've got to answer for it. haha. It was a long time coming, having "turned the other cheek" numerous times, I had had enough. Funny enough, we had drinks with some Americans we meet yesterday and they had a similar situation and similarly laid the law down. Ah, good times.

Well, Darjeeling has been terrific. Though we will not get to see the mountain peeks that surround us because of the fog (we did see them when we flew in), it has still been a great stop. We spend our days drinking tea and walking the steeply sloped streets of this tiny little hill town of mostly Nepalese and Tibeten ex-pats. The weather is cool and the itinerary minimal, so we just lounge around enjoying food and drink.

We leave for Calcutta tomorrow evening for a one night stay and then we return to America the next day... it's so close we can almost feel it. It has been an incredible month of traveling around and experiencing this crazy subcontinent, but we are both ready to be home. Looking forward to seeing everyone soon!

We made it to Darjeeling!

With box lunches and bags in hand, we left Varanasi by train heading to Kolkata where we were to catch a flight the following day. After a two hour delay, we finally got settled on board and the minute Eric put on his headphones and tuned out I was approached by a lady in her 60s who proceeded to tell me her family (Sikhs) have been having an hour long argument as to whether I was part Indian. They all shook their heads and said, "Your eyes and hair mean you could be a little Indian, but not him (pointing at Eric)." I proceeded to tell them of both our heritages and they told me of their one white relative who seemed to be the golden child of their family, a beautiful Russian woman who married her son. Eventually the neice and nephew of her family started eavesdropping and rushed over when they heard America. Come to find out, they have family in CA who own a restaurant down the street from us. Small world.

We arrived to Kolkata with just enough time to grab a good meal and head to the airport where we caught our SpiceJet flight to Bagadora. Flight landed safely and we arrange for a Jeep to take us on the long (and bumpy) 3 hour journey in to the foothills. All seemed well until the hired driver at the legitimate taxi counter tried to rip Eric off. Eric grabbed him by the shirt collar, pushed him against his Jeep and told him that he was going to "crush his f-ing skull" for trying to rip us off. After a bit of commotion amongst us and 15 other hired drivers, a new one was appointed and we continued on our way. (For those who have seen Eric in action, I will be happy to share the entire story next time we see you.)

Darjeeling, finally. No cows. No garbage on the streets. No salespeople hassling you. Just calm Tibetan, Nepalese Buddhists in a serene mountaintop setting. We love Darjeeling.

Visited Tenzing Norgay's museum, a zoo where we got up close to leopards and met a few westerners with whom we shared some excellent tea. So far views of Everst are shrouded in fog but we're hoping to snap a few pictures tomorrow around 5 am.

We took a beautiful boad ride up the ganges river last night. An old man rowed Nicole and me up stream (the water flows from the himalayan mountains just a few hundred miles north of here) for about an hour until the sun set over the town of Varanasi. Then we turned around (the river flows to Calcutta) and rowed near the ghats (steps that lead into the water). It really becomes peaceful, for the first time in india, out on the river.

This 10km section of the river is sacred - ironic when you learn how polluted it is. This is where hindi people come to be cremated, and nicole and i watched some very moving cermonies from our boat. For about $10, Brahmin (a religious man) will build a big stack of wood and perform the ceremony. The family stands on the riverside ghat and the "pallbearers' carry the body on a bamboo stretcher covered in a bright cloth and flowers down to the river. The stretcher is immersed in the water and then the body is placed on the stack of wood. The Brahmin performs some rituals as the family watches and then lights the fire. Within an hour or so, nothing but ash remains. If you can't afford the $10, there is an electric burning facility next door for much less. A rich family might elect for the wood pile to be sandlewood, and this would cost much more.

About the tranquil waters of the Ganges... if you are within certain categories: never married, don't have a job, under 10 years old, afflicted with chronic disease, or bitten by a snake, the brahmin won't cremate you. Instead, they tie a big stone around your body, take you to the middle of the river, and drop you in. 45,000 corpses are dropped into the river at this area each year. Add to this "medical waste" the fact that there are 30 sewers emptying directly into this area of the "sacred" river and the pollution levels are off the charts. Yet, each morning, thousands of pilgrims walk down the steps of the ghats to bath in and drink from it.

There truly are no limits to the shocking things we see here. My head hasn't quit shaking in bewilderment since we first landed.

Vegetarian

Another tidbit about food...while many people (Hindus) here are vegetarian, there is still no shortage of non-vegetarian food for other religious folk to indulge in. Albeit, a bit risky to try, after 2 weeks one does begin to live on the dangerous side and opt for chicken a time or two. Chicken noodle soup or a chicken briyani (rice seasoned and prepared with chicken) becomes a tasty option and has served me well thus far, until now. Opinions changed as we were enjoying our rickshaw ride back from the ghats through the busy streets around 8 pm last night.

Watching the local tradesmen in their shops along the dusty and busy street, I noticed cute little white caged chickens and it appeared we had finally spotted a butcher's shop. I looked at Eric and said, "Well at least now I've seen where the chicken comes from." Thinking I've seen enough raw butching in Chinatowns across America, I figured this was nothing I hadn't seen before. Wrong. Right next to this cage was a bucket for plucked white feathers and above it was a table with a man squatting in typical indian fashion. He was holding a rather rusty old knife in between his toes (yes, toes) and using his hands to slice and dice the chicken parts accordingly. All within about 3 feet of the stray dogs, random cows, dust and fuel fumes of the streets of Varanasi.

I'm back to being a vegetarian in India.

Quick tidbit. We were walking down the road directly across the street from the entrance to the Taj Mahal and watched a buffalo herder bringing his flock of enormous buffalo right through the city streets (actually very narrow alleys and lanes). Now, we've seen every kind of animal imaginable wandering city streets - monkeys, camels, cows, dogs, cats, rats, goats, donkeys, etc. - but this was different. After the long line of fifty or so buffalo passed us along with their herders, several very small girls (probably around 5-8 years old) were running all over the place doing their job for the herd... scrapping the buffalo dung up off the strreets with their bare hands and putting it into a gigantic bucket. They were literally covered in it. Appearently, they collect the stuff, shape it into patties, dry it, and use/sell it as heating fuel. When we asked someone about it, they looked at us like we were from Mars, "of course they collect it, very good fuel!!"

Unbelievable, and this was right in front of the #1 toursit destination in all of India. The stuff you see here.

Tonight we head to Varanasi by overnight train. Varanasi is the holiest city for Hindus, and many travel great distances to get there in order to die in the city on the Ganges River. Legend has it, if a Hindi dies there, it stops the cycle of reincarnation (birth, death, and rebirth) that they long for. 

Afternoon School Bus

AC 1 Cabin on the way to Agra on Jaipur Express

The Taj Mahal!!!!

Udaipur

We are relaxing at a cafe, delaying our departure to the train station till the last minute possible (they're not known to be a happening spot). We've spent the past two days in Udaipur, visiting what is considered the most  romantic place in India, good time as yesterday was Valentine's Day. Every restaurant is on the roof which allows for a spectacular view of the sunset and the Lake Palace which is virtually floating in the middle of a somewhat water deprived lake.

Day One we wondered the streets and visited the "must sees". We toured the City Palace and were witness to a major set up taking place...a wedding. Some millionaire must be spoiling his daughter as they were hosting celebrations at what must be the hottest place to have a ceremony and celebrations. Hundreds of people were working on the production and although we weren't invited, we did get spoiled with the firework display they put on later that night. We learned about another maharaja family and the history and wonder they brought to this state of Rajasthan.

We continued our day, enjoying the city and found ourselves in a quiet courtyard enjoying a bit of silence from the streets and a delicious lunch. Afterwards, we hoped on a boat and took a beautiful and scenice boat ride around the city. A wonderful perspective and great view of all the magnificent structures...made me think of the shores of Italy, Indian style.

Today, we just wondered around the city and took it easy. We hit the half way mark of our trip and thought this would be a great place to slow down and enjoy just being in India. We shopped, Eric bargained!, and spent the day in and out of cafes and restaurants. As mentioned earlier, we're on a night train to Agra. Tomorrow is the Taj!! We're so excited!!

Images from the Road

Local Goat Herders along the Road

You say, "Camera" and the kids go crazy!

Old Carrier Pigeon Cages (Grandpa Ray would be impressed)

Inside City Palace

Lake Palace

Local Water Well

Along the Lake

Hotel Ganguar

Elephant getting ready for huge wedding at City Palace

iUpdates and answers to questions:

Nicole is feeling better. We're hopeful that the allergies were left behind in the desert. My Delhi Belly is getting better, but not gone completely. Always the optimist, I wouldn't have been happy unless my trip had included such a regional hardship. Though with toilets equaling a small hole in the ground, perhaps this wasn't the best part of the country to get ill. Oh well, better days ahead.

As for smells (Willi)... How can I put this? The many foods smell fantastic! Poori Baji (a potatoe gravy) in the morning, fragrant rices, masalas, and the many spices we've never even heard of are a huge treat to the nose. I look forward to it every day and hope to replicate some of them when we get back to the US.

But let's be realistic, those good smells account for about 10% of our day. The bulk is spent tolerating the open sewers (no seriously, I have photos) running through every city, dodging cow dung which liberally dots the streets, and appreciating the ability of the Indian male to urinate/defecate at will wherever he chooses.

I prefer to dwell on the foods, though having just written the above paragraph, not sure if I will stray far from US brought granola bars for the next 2 weeks. No really, we're having a good time :)

Much love to all.

Nic and I hired a car and driver this morning to take us across the desert to the lake town of Udaipur. It was just a little 2 cylinder Tata, but it might as well have been Doc Brown's DeLorean with the flux capacitor set back to the Middle Ages.

We drove for about 6 hours through a nearly barren landscape, where pick axes were the tool of choice, women walked with large pots on their heads, young children posed as goat herders, and animals ruled the "streets."

Oxen, cows, camels, pigs, dogs, cats, and monkeys, we swerved to miss them all. Women seemed to do the heavy lifting - swinging picks, carrying stones, tending herds - while the men enjoyed a lazy afternoon chai. It was truly a trip back in time.

Amazingly, despite dusty desert conditions, the women are impeccably dressed in vibrant fuscia, tangerine, and yellow saris. Not sure how they manage to stay clean and bright, there surely isn't a washing machine in sight. They are the bright spot in this otherwise drab landscape.

Halfway through the drive, you come upon an oasis, where the Jains have built magnificintly ornate temples. Jainism is a religion in this part of India that believe in strict vegetarianism and the protection of all life. No leather is allowed inside their temples, and they practioners go as far as to watch where they walk to make sure they don't step on insects. The temples were over the top beautifully carved marble... all done hundreds of years ago with simple tools, and the careful attention not to disturb bugs and worms.

Finally we arrived in Udaipur and plan to have dinner on a rooftop overlooking the lake in the middle of town while watching James Bond's Octopussy, which was partially filmed here, and which they proudly show every night.

Umaid Bhawan Palace (modern maharaja palace, and Taj Hotel)

Our sneak peak in to the Presidential Suite!

Jodhpur/Blue City Landscape

Jain Temples/Ranakpur

 

 

Images from the Streets of Rajasthan

Water Wheel in the desert

 

 Camel Stuck in Traffic

  

Carrying water home

 

One of Eric's many new friends

 

View of Golden Temple

 

Riding the Rickshaw

 

View of the Jodhpur Fort

 

Inside the Palace/Fort - the last Maharaja of Jodhpur

Delhi Belly and Then Some

We might have spoken a bit too soon about the food, as Delhi Belly has struck. It's been 24 hours and Eric is on the slow path to recovery. I must have a stomach of steel but a horrible sinus system because all evidence proves 4 full days in India equals a horrible, razor cutting sore throat due to the air pollution no book or video ever warns you about. At the conclusion of this blog, we'll put together a top 10 best and worst things they guide books leave out.

Despite these hiccups, we're still enjoying ourselves. We're, once again, staying in the "old" neighborhood of our city of choice in Jodhpur...these parts of town are the most crowded, busiest, noisiest and lively places of all. Pal Haveli is a heritage palace hotel located just steps away from the fort. We rested from the 2 flights and slight illnesses yesterday and woke up this morning ready to see Jodhpur. We explored the original castle and fort with an audio tour that made us feel like we were right in the thick of 15th century. From there we grabbed a tuk-tuk (they're a bit fancier here then in Delhi) to Umaid Bhawan Palace. We convinced the multiple guards to let us in (even though we weren't guests of the hotel). We enjoyed lunch on the veranda with beautiful sweeping views of the "blue city" and fort. We lingered as long as possible and wandered halls and stairways until we found ourselves on the floor of the presidential suite. There, a staff member approached us and whispered, "Do you want to see the Presidential Suite?" "Of course!" we replied. "Ok, I show you but don't tell anyone." What?!! Before we knew it he opened up doors that lead in to a palace of a room, complete with dining room which seated 12 and had it's own kitchen. The lounge room had a hint of 70-80s style to it (as that's when the palace was built)...but it gets better...from the main bedroom he led us to the spa room, the yoga room and proudly pointed out the tub was carved from one piece of marble. He went on to tell us Hillary Clinton, Bill Gates and others had stayed there.

Tomorrow we head towards Udaipur, while stopping in Ranakpur along the way to visit the Jain Temples. Eric and I are embracing the bare feet thing, although it took some getting used to. Most temples have small pools of water to walk through before entering so at least they get a cleaning on the way in and out.

Wow, internet access is way more difficult to come by than we thought it would be. Right now I am in the building they allow Sihk pilgrams to stay in when they come visit the Golden Temple - the wholiest place on earth for them. Sihks are the ones who always where turbins and the men never cut their hair. They are also some of the nicest people we have ever met. We've lost count of how many times people have wanted to chat with us, take their picture with us, and ask us to have tea with them. We oblige on almost every occasion. One boy was so excited to meet us he asked if we would take a picture with him (like has hapened tens of times)... when we said yes and lined up for the photo, he said, "Oh,  I don't have a camera, but you should take picture with yours." It was so funny.

Anyway, we got into Amritsar (northern India, just below Kashmir on the Pakistan border) yesterday morning on the Golden Temple Express. We had a cabin with two beds to ourselves and slept most of the night. Before you think it was that glamorous, I nearly vomited 2 seconds after attempting to use the bathroom and Nicole saw a rat... that was in first class. Indians travel in the lower class trains which sleep 100's to a single car. Eye-opening.

But we made it. This town is all about the Golden Temple. It is like Mecca for muslims and all Sihks try to come here in their lifetime. We've met cab drivers from NY and truckers from CA. Every Sihk comes here. Last night we participated in carrying their most holy book, written by their 1st Guru 500 years ago from the Golden Temple into its resting place for the evening, then shared coffee and sweets with a pilgrim. They are seriously the nicest people.

Thanks dad for the email on the Super Bowl. I just a few minutes ago learned from it that the Saints won... Nic's uncle Vic must be going nuts (season ticket holder).

Still enjoying the food a lot. Hot tea at every meal, and oftentimes in between too. Nan bread, spicy curries with vege mixes, curd yogurt, a drink called lassi which is like a yogurt smoothie, and tons of other goodies.

We fly to Jodhpur tomorrow morning. It's on the edge of the Thar desert in the state of Rajasthan. We'll be looking for the "evil maharaja" of Moulin Rouge fame. Hopefully internet will come easier out there. Bye!

Leaving Delhi this evening-

Today was full of Sihk Temples with important Gurus, Mughal Tombs predating the Taj Mahal, Hindu and Bahai Temples, Islamic Mosques, and Ghandi's final days. We spent the day with Sonu, our driver, who wanted to introduce us to places all over Delhi.

While visiting Qutab Minar (the 12th century city of Delhi) we stumbled upon the filming of a Bollywood music video. School kids went crazy over whoever the star of the video was and Nicole and I sat on a hill and watched them rehearse the choreography. Justin Timberlake they are not.

The people are alarmingly friendly and want to say hi whenever they see us. A favorite conversation starter is "we love Obama... Bush bad." After watching the filming of the Bollywood video, as the schoolchildren left, everyone of them wanted to shake hands with us. Yesterday, while visiting the Red Fort, hundreds of elementary school girls shyly said hello to Nicole. The encounters are sweet.

We get on an overnight train this evening to Amritsar in the state of Punjab. Talk to you then.

We're almost there!!

Humayan's Tomb (aka Baby Taj)

Jamma Masjid (Largest Mosque in Asia. Rented sari could use an update.)

Rented Taxi for day of Sightseeing

Safdarjang's Tomb

Gandhi's House and Path of Final Steps before Assasination

So much for adjusting to the time difference (13.5 hours ahead of LA)... it's 4am and I am wide awake.

Nic and I had a great first day. We had a terrific potato and gravy breakfast with hot tea and then walked out our hotel into the labyrinth of 17th century streets and back alleys of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi). They sidewalks are full of vegetables and flowers, monkeys run along the masses of electrical lines, and the flow of people is everywhere. Taxis, motorcyle tuck tucks, bicycle rickshsaws, and people walking on every conceivable space, but rarely ever bumping into each other... everything is organized in a structured chaos.

We started our day with a visit to Jamma Masjid, which as the largest mosque in Asia, has room for 25,000 worshipers. We climbed to the top of one of the minarets for an ariel view of the city, but unfortunately, saw mostly a polluted haze. At times the air is choking with smoke, exhaust, spices.

We hired a tuck tuck to speed around the city, visiting various sites and markets, rested with some coffee and tea in an old colonial british coffee house, sampled several different indian foods (mutton kabobs, tandori chicken, nan, and some sweet fried dough balls, and finally finished up our day far dirtier than we predicted when we first packed our suitcases with only 2 pairs of pants each. Laundry was done in the shower (not a good sign when you have to do laundry on the first day).

Overall the first day was a success. We feel great, and though a bit overwhelmed with all of the sights, smells, tastes, and sounds, we're excited to keep exploring the nooks and crannys. Love to all.